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京繍 京都刺繍協同組合

KYO-NUIEMBROIDERY
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  1. 室町時代(14世紀)に成立した能狂言の装束には、当初から華麗な刺繍がほどこされていた。

刺繍は、5世紀頃の仏教伝来時に、刺繍で仏像などをあらわす繍仏として中国からもたらされました。京繍は、8世紀末の平安遷都とともに、刺繍職人を束ねる「織部司」が置かれたことが始まりとされています。十二単などの貴族の衣装をはじめ、時代を経るごとに、武士が持つ太刀の平緒、刀剣の柄装、能装束など、宗教以外の用途にも施されるようになりました。安土桃山時代(16世紀)以降は、着物の装飾として、絹糸に加えて金糸や銀糸を用いるなど、華やかで繊細なものへと発展。糸の太さや生地に合わせた15種の針を使い分け、15種の技法を駆使して、光の屈折も考慮に入れた緻密で芸術的な美しさを確立させました。明治時代(19世紀)以降は壁掛けや屏風など、観賞用としても親しまれ、現在では、バッグや小物入れなど、さまざまなアイテムに華やぎを添えています。

Embroidery was first introduced to Japan from China around the 5th century in depicting Buddhist images. At the beginning of the Heian period (end of 8th century), Kyoto became capital and Kyo-embroidery was centered around a department of the Imperial Court named Oribe no Tsukasa. Aristocratic clothes such as ceremonial robes for formal court dress (Jūni-hitoe) were made here, then over the years, embroidery was used for secular purposes such as Noh theater costumes and samurai swords. Since the Azuchi-Momoyama era (16th century), embroiderers in Kyoto have made highly refined kimonos with delicate silk and exquisite gold and silver thread. 15 different types of needles are utilized according to the thickness of the thread and the fabric. Full use is made of 15 sewing techniques so that the embroidery shines with every refraction of light. Since the Meiji era (19th century), Kyo-embroidery has become popular as an ornamental item for wall hangings and folding screens, and nowadays it also decorates other items such as bags and accessory cases.

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  1. :衣装を優美に見せる能装束のひとつ「鬘帯(かづらおび)」。鬘の上から鉢巻のように結び、その上から面をつける。
  2. : 小物入れなどのインテリアグッズは、手元に置いて間近に刺繍の針目を愛でることができる。
  3. : 華やかな宝尽くし模様の刺繍を全面に散りばめた贅沢なバッグ。

(1,2,3,4 すべてすべて株式会社長艸繡巧房)

1: Costumes of Noh Kyōgen established in the Muromachi period (14th century) have been brilliantly embroidered since the beginning. 2: Kazuraobi, an elegant Noh costume for female roles. Tied like a headband from the top of the wig and attached to the surface from above. 3: Interior goods such as accessory cases can be kept at hand. The embroidered stitches can be admired up close. 4: A luxurious bag with embroidered patterns on the entire surface. (1,2,3,4 Nagakusa Embroidery)